Mercedes c220 cdi starting problems

This section covers the potential reliability issues that you might have with the Mercedes-Benz W Click on the buttons below to read more about the typical problems that fall outside the scope of routine maintenance. In my opinion, the W C-class cars manufactured in the first years after the model was released are considered to be less reliable than the ones made after the facelift in There is nothing terribly wrong with the pre-facelift models but there were cases of electrical issues and problems with build quality.

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Often, newly released products have some problems. It takes a while for the manufacturers to sort out design flaws and quality issues.

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This is true not only for cars but many other products. A bit of an extreme example is the Samsung Galaxy Note 7 with its batteries catching fire. Build quality issues. In my opinion, corrosion was one of the top problems with Mercedes-Benz vehicles produced between and This is because around Mercedes-Benz implemented a more environmentally friendly, water-based paint. Therefore, I recommend getting one of the post-facelift W models as they all have galvanized bodies.

The facelift took place in in the US. Corrosion water-based paint. The early W models, manufactured before The transmission oil cooler in these cars is integrated with the radiator.

The faulty radiators were made by Valeo and had a problem with an internal seal that was supposed to separate the coolant from the transmission oil. A failed seal would release the coolant into the transmission oil circuit. Cars with manual transmissions are not affected. The coolant in the transmission is not a good thing and causes severe clutch surface wear, among other issues. The fix for a transmission contaminated with coolant is to:.

Definitely look out for this when test driving a W C-class made before The majority of the C-Class vehicles on the road today would have had the faulty radiators replaced by now. If you do buy a car with a Valeo radiator, consider having it replaced as there is still a small risk that it could fail. Only cars manufactured before You can identify a Valeo radiator by the crimping method i. In my opinion, the head gasket is the weak point of these engines.

Considering head gasket replacement is inevitable at some point, often around k miles. Before the gasket fails completely, these engines often develop an external oil leak from the head gasket at the back of the engine. Make sure to inspect that area when buying one of these cars. Once the head gasket fails and is replaced, the new one should be good for another k — k miles.

This issue mainly affects the inline-6 engines, because of their long cylinder heads. However, the 4-cylinder M engines are also affected, but to a smaller degree.This controls, as the name suggests, the fuel rail pressure.

It relies on the seal made between a single small O-ring which is backed by a split fibre backing ring. What happens over time is that the O-ring wears and often fails allowing pressurised fuel to bypass the valve and ebb away the required running pressure that the injectors need.

Often the problem becomes more noticeable once the engine is warm and poor starting results.

mercedes c220 cdi starting problems

Usual symptoms for this can be laboured starting when warm and occasional non starting, if the fuel rail cannot maintain the required minimum of approximately bar at crank to allow the injectors to fire. If it is possible to monitor rail pressure using Live-Data, you may see the rail pressure dancing between and bar.

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Instability of pressure when holding a steady throttle will be the clue as to a problem with the fuel pressure control. Remove the two opposing pins on the regulator flange left and right as fitted. Keeping the device clean, remove both the green O-ring and fibre backing ring from the tip of the regulator and replace with new components.

Problems and Faults with the W204 C Class

Refit the regulator assembly to the rail. It makes it easier if you have the left hand threaded pin in place in the regulator flange mounting hole, before offering it into place. Back of the fuel rail where the regulator mounts normally hidden from view. It is important to note that a failing fuel injector can also deprive the fuel rail of its operating pressure.

See this interesting and descriptive forum post regarding leak-off testing. Fuel rail pressure regulator seal kit part number. Hi Dennis Thats fantastic.! So glad it helped you out. All the best Steve. I have the sprinter on a year. So do you know if this kit will fit it? Hi James, The pressure regulator on the later sprinters is sold as a complete regulator rail by Mercedes as a new part.

If you shop around you can get a good used part for about GBP from such as Ebay like this one here. Once tightened correct fuel delivery is restored.

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May be worth investigating. Also be doubly sure you can see no air in the hard plastic hoses from the low pressure pump to the HP pump, if so look no further! Once that is sorted fuel filter return valve or delivery pipe O rings you could find that is all that is needed to get you sorted. Thanks for this info. What year is the cut-off? I have a that my mechanic says the regulator is going out on.

What info is correct? Thanks again, Steve.The W stopped production inwhich is a seven year run since The Mercedes W came in a saloon, estate and coupe variants with the majority of engines available in all formats.

The W was the company car of choice by many companies, with the impressive MPG and emission figures coming from the efficient 4 cylinder diesel models. The C63 AMG version of the W is probably the most popular Mercedes to date that is attracted by both the young and older generation of drivers around the world. The C Class already looks great, but with a few tweaks you can transform the W into an aggressive Mercedes with big road presence. Also, colour coded mudflaps are a great upgrade to the W that reduce spray but more importantly look great.

If you choose to buy the desirable W C63, it will require regular maintenance to ensure it remains running at its optimum performance. Regular maintenance such as using the correct engine oil for the carchanging the brakes and replacing the rear tyres are far more frequent in the C However, the performance and the V8 roar make it all worthwhile. Keep up to date by checking Vosa.

Mercedes c220 w203 turns off after first start

Overall, the W was a step ahead from the previous C Class W and has many high reviews regarding reliability. With over models, you have a vast selection, which you can view here. Toggle navigation. Related Posts. Facts and Figures. Find Garage. Contact Us.Forums New posts Search forums. Media New media New comments Search media. Members Current visitors. Log in Register. Search titles only.

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E320 cdi starting problem

Log in. Contact us. Close Menu. JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Home Forums Technical Engine. Thread starter Vita Start date Sep 20, Tags c cdi starting. Vita New Member.

mercedes c220 cdi starting problems

Joined Feb 8, Messages I went to start the car up in the morning, and put the key in the ignition it's one of those laser keysturned it into position 1, lights come on, position 2, all dash lights come on.

Came to position 3, the car wouldn't start? Tried again, nope nothing zilch. Thought battery might be flat, got jump leads with a mates car, nothing. So my initial thoughts are could either be spark plugs or imoboliser, but the spark plugs arn't even a year old yet.

Any ideas appreciated.I am interested in cars and do my own repairs where I can. I like to share any knowledge I have to help other people where possible.

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The diesel particulate filter DPF is a part of the exhaust system, designed to filter out particulates and reduce pollution. The way it is supposed to work is that it collects soot and ash; then, on long journeys, the car raises the exhaust temperature, performs a cleaning cycle and burns it off. One problem some people have with their cars—and this is quite common with the Mercedes models in the title—is that they're only running around locally and don't go on long journeys, so the car never gets the chance to run the cleaning cycle, the DPF fills up and the car then puts itself into limp mode.

Another common but distinct problem is that the pressure sensor fails, which makes the car think the DPF is full. In either case, the outcome is the same: limp mode, reduced power and a warning light on the dashboard. In fact it is so cheap to do, that you can do that to rule it out with little outlay, and in my experience doing that can sort out the issue.

In fact my car has been through two DPF pressure sensors since I bought it a couple of years ago, so I thought I'd write a guide on how to replace it as I struggled to find any info online. To do this job properly, you'll need to not only replace the sensor, but you'll need to delete the fault code as well. To do this you'll need a diagnostic machine. The one I use is an icarsoft MB v2.

These are cheap and very useful for diagnosing problems. If you buy one for this job it will cost you about the same as it would to take your car to a garage and get them to do it, but once you have it you can use it again and again so I think it is a useful and worthwhile investment. At this point, you can try a new sensor to hopefully remedy the issue. If you look at the pictures below, you can see how to read the live data from the engine, to see the state of the DPF.

Apart from a diagnostic machine, these are the tools you'll need to change the sensor. An E11 torx socket and a pair of long-nose pliers. The engine is in different states of tune in the different vehicles, but basically it is a strong engine, good for many miles.

In the car the DPF sensor is located behind the engine block at the back next to the bulkhead. Although just out of sight, it is pretty close to the top of the engine, so it is easy to reach and replace. I have tried to illustrate the location in the photo below.Log in or Sign up. Mercedes-Benz Owners' Forums. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.

Learn More. Messages: 24 Likes Received: 0 Joined: Dec 14, Hello Guys I am new here with a problem and have no or min. The battery is fine and all the electric units lights, wippers, heater etc etc work fine as they should. I called a mechanic the next morning and after checking he told me that the diesel has been leaking dont know since when from a pipe above the starter motor and it has short circuited the starter motor.

He somewhat bypassed the starter motor and started the car for a while and then he switched it off. I have read the related articals to the starter motor on this forum and would like to know from you guy where in the fusebox under bonnet on driver side i would find the fuse for starter motor so that i put a new fuse of 25 Amp rating to see if it works. Can someone please post a fuse diagram. Also if you guys can confirm if this problem No noise of ignition at all when try to start is related to starter motor.

Many thanks. AleemDec 14, This any help??

mercedes c220 cdi starting problems

Cole MBSDec 14, Worked for me. Was expecting all sorts of costs to be incurred but luckily it wasn't. E class cdi auto similar problem, started in the morning,my wife drove to shops unfortunately when returning full ignition and dash panel however no start crank. This happened similarly about 4 months ago when I found the earth lead between chassis and transmission corroded. Thought that it was the same issue and removed and cleaned, however no joy. Someone indicated that the connector underneath on the bulkhead where the starter main wire connects are problematic, however this was tight, how do you obtain access to this or is there any test which I can carry out.

The battery is Bosch and was replaced on the initial issue 4 months ago. Would like to know how to check the signal wire or any suggestions. BilldadJul 9, E class cdi auto similar problem, started in the morning,my wife drove to shops unfortunatly when returning full ignition and dash panel however no stat crank.

Someone indicated that the conector underneath on the bulkhead where the starter main wire connects are problematic, however this was tight, how do you obtain access to this or is there any test which I can carry out.

mercedes c220 cdi starting problems

The battery is Bosch and was repaced on the initial issue 4 months ago. Sometimes the fuse will seem perfectly fine and when you test it, will seem as its not working because you will need someone to turn the key while testing.

I had similar issue, I removed the fuse and put a new one in plus the plug that has purple wire and red wire take it out and push it back in. This will short the starter and blow your fuse but you will start the car and it will last for few weeks and back to normal.Original Poster. Search My Stuff What's New 3 12 24 E cdi starting problem. Hi I have a cdi auto It has done k miles. In the last few days it has developed a problem when i go to start it. When i try to start it for the first time on a oarticular day it takes a long time to start.

I have to do this about 4 or 5 times before it starts to fire and starts. If i then turn the engine off and try to start iy again it dtarts first time no problem. It is then fine for the rest of the day. But the next day i gave the same problem.

Soletimes the weather us hot, sometimes wet and cold. Sometimes the first time i start the car is first thing in the morning or lunchtime.

C220 CDI Not Starting

Ie these things dont seem to make a difference. Anyone had any similar problems? Untill then it turns fine. But thats all. Thanks for any help. Phil Edited by philv on Sunday 3rd June Take the top covers off the engine and have a look at the clear plastic pipes that run from the high pressure pump to the fuel rail, they get brittle with age and the o ring seals start to shrink and let air into the system.

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Also worth having a look at the high pressure pump on the front of the engine. It's a small rotary pump with 3 cylinder heads that feeds the injectors.

You can get corrosion between the pump body and the pump heads that means it won't get up to pressure so easily. Mine went a little while ago at similar mileage Although over time I have done the pipes mentioned earlier as well as a couple of injectors. Put it on a Star machines and get the codes read. That should get right to the heart of the matter Nick Frome. Nott posts months. I had exactly this problem on my E CDi which proved to be the fault suggested above of brittle seals allowing air into the system when the car was left for a few hours.

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